There’s a special kind of magic in the air before sunrise, especially in the tropics. The humidity clings to your skin, the world is still asleep, and there’s a quiet excitement in knowing that the day ahead holds the potential for incredible wildlife encounters.
Last year, during Birdweek in Cairns, I had the opportunity to join a sunrise river cruise along the Daintree River, a place renowned for its rich birdlife and prehistoric beauty. Of course, the catch was a painfully early start- 4 AM to be precise - to make the journey from Cairns in time.
The Importance of a Good Pair of Binoculars.
My travel companion for the morning was a fellow birder from Toowoomba, and together we navigated the long, winding road north. The drive itself turned out to be an adventure.
Roadworks slowed us down, and the hire car we’d ended up with had what I can only describe as the dimmest headlights Known to mankind—which made dodging potholes in the pitch black particularly interesting.
But as all birders know, the best birds are often found at the most unreasonable hours, so we pushed on.
We arrived at the boat ramp with just enough time to stretch our legs and take in the pre-dawn symphony. Across the river, silhouetted against the faint glow of the approaching sunrise, we spotted what we estimated to be about 15 Royal Spoonbills nesting in the treetops—a spectacular sight before the cruise had even begun.
The Cairns Birders Group: Just a group of people who share common interests and meet up to enjoy it.
As we waited for the boats to be prepared, I did what any birder does - I adjusted my binoculars and made sure they were ready. The truth is, a good pair of binoculars can make or break a birding trip. If you've ever tried to track a darting kingfisher or pick out the details of a bird perched deep in the mangroves with foggy, dim, or heavy binoculars, you'll know the struggle.
The Upper Daintree River
The Daintree is full of secretive birds— kingfishers that zip past in a flash of blue, tiny sunbirds that disappear into dense foliage, and herons camouflaged so well they might as well be part of the scenery. You need something clear, crisp, and lightweight so you're not fumbling when that once-in-a-lifetime sighting appears.
The Great-billed Heron (Ardea sumatrana) stands out with its imposing size and unique long bill, a rare sight in Australia's coastal wetlands.
I watched as some birders on the dock struggled with shaky, out-of-focus views, and it reminded me just how crucial it is to invest in something that works for you. There’s nothing worse than spotting a rare bird, lifting your binoculars, and realising you can't actually see it properly.
Setting Off on the River
Our tour was with Daintree River Tours, and I cannot recommend them highly enough. They're knowledgeable, friendly, and best of all, they understand birders—no rush, no_ unnecessary chatter, just pure wildlife immersion.
Murray Hunt – Daintree Boatman
There were enough keen birders to fill two boats, and as we pushed off from the dock right on sunrise, the first rays of light kissed the water, turning it into a shimmering path of gold. The air was thick with the calls of unseen birds— honey-eaters chattering in the trees, herons croaking from the shallows, and the occasional eerie, distant cry of a
Papuan Frogmouth. We drifted along the river, eyes scanning the overhanging branches, mangrove roots, and quiet backwaters. The sightings came thick and fast—egrets,
herons, flycatchers, honeyeaters, and even a glimpse of a Great-billed Heron, which sent the boat into a silent but frenzied whisper of excitement. Between the two boats, we tallied over 50 species in just two hours.
The Bird of the Day- The Azure Kingfisher
But there was one bird | had my heart set on. The Azure Kingfisher (Ceyx azureus). Small, electric blue, and stunningly vibrant, this species has an almost otherworldly glow. It’s the kind of bird that, when you finally spot it, makes you hold your breath as if breathing too loudly might scare it away.
Then—there it was.
Perched low on a branch, just above the water, its deep blue and fiery orange plumage burned against the soft greens of the mangroves. It sat completely still, head cocked, calculating its next dive. I barely breathed as I lifted my camera, adjusting settings as quickly but carefully as I could. Click. Click. Click.
The Azure Kingfisher (Ceyx azureus) is a small but bold predator, easily identified by its bright blue plumage and sharp, hunting technique.
For a few seconds, the kingfisher was mine. And then—gone. A flash of blue and a small splash were all that remained as it dived into the river and disappeared. I exhaled, heart racing, and checked my camera. I had it. A few crisp, beautiful shots of one of the most striking birds in Australia.
A Morning to Remember.
As we continued along the river, I found just sitting back and soaking in the moment. The gentle hum oft he boat, the occasional ripple in the water, the distant croak of a heron—it was one of those mornings that reminds you why you fell in love with birding in the first place.
By the time we returned to shore, the Sun was fully up, the air buzzing with cicadas, and my stomach reminding me that I had absolutely skipped breakfast.
But none of that mattered.
Because that morning, in the heart of the Daintree, I had come face-to-face with one of the most beautiful birds I've ever seen.
And I wouldn't trade that for anything.
Want to spot the Azure Kingfisher?
While it's a bit out of season, these vibrant birds can still be found across Australia. Whether you're in Queensland, New South Wales, or even Victoria, they’re still active and can be spotted in the right habitats. Look for them perched near water or darting across the surface, and listen for their sharp "tseet!" call. Here’s what to look out for and where to find them:
Azure Kingfisher
Scientific Name: Ceyx azureus
Family: Alcedinidae
Conservation Status (AUS): Least Concern
Appearance
Size: ~17–19 cm long
Weight: Around 30 grams
Upperparts: Bright azure-blue to purplish-blue with a glossy sheen
Underparts: Deep rufous-orange from chin to vent
Bill: Long, straight, black
Feet: Small and red-orange
Facial Markings: A distinct white spot in front of the eye
Sex Differences
Males and females appear almost identical; minor color variations may occur but are not reliably used to differentiate sexes.
Breeding
Season: August–February (Southern Australia), Wet season (Northern Australia)
Nest: Burrow dug into vertical riverbanks or creek banks (up to 1 metre long)
Clutch Size: 4–7 white eggs
Incubation & Nestling Period: Incubated by both parents; fledging occurs in 3–4 weeks
Diet
Primary Foods: Small fish, freshwater crustaceans, aquatic insects, tadpoles
Hunting Method: Hunts from a perch above water, diving head-first to capture prey, then returning to the perch to swallow prey whole
Habitat & Range
Habitat: Shaded freshwater streams, rivers, creeks, billabongs, wetlands, and mangroves
Distribution: Eastern and Northern Australia (Queensland, Northern Territory, NSW, Tasmania), and Southern Papua New Guinea
Top Hotspots for Azure Kingfisher in Australia
Queensland: Daintree River, Cattana Wetlands, Lake Eacham & Lake Barrine
Northern Territory: Yellow Water Billabong (Kakadu), Fogg Dam Conservation Reserve
New South Wales: Lane Cove National Park, Warriewood Wetlands, Royal National Park
Tasmania: Huon Valley, Mount Field National Park
Victoria: Wilson Reserve, Banyule Flats Reserve, Griffith Park
How to Spot One
Best seen early morning or late afternoon
Look for a quick, low flight over water or a small bird perched just above the surface
Listen for a sharp "tseet!" call, often the first sign that one is nearby
Happy birding, and remember, patience is key when looking for this little guy!
